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WHAT DO YOU MEAN THE BOAT SANK? PLANS CHANGE, WE'RE VERSATILE
Dale always writes the best trip reports, so I'm using the bulk of his report as mine! As most of you know, Belize owes me a good time! Four years ago, I had a miserable time there, but thank goodness this trip made up for it! Three of the past four years New Years have been spent in some exotic place scuba diving. This year's plans took a sudden turn on October 8, 2001! Dale, Sherrie, Rick and I were scheduled to dive Belize aboard the Peter Hughes Wave Dancer. Hurricane Iris, packing 140 mph winds, made landfall in the Southern Placencia) region of the Central American Country of Belize during the evening of October 8, capsizing the live aboard with all twenty-eight passengers and crew onboard. The loss of life as a result was more than most divers could comprehend. Our hearts and prayers went out to all involved in the horrible event. Our plans certainly had to change, assuming we even wanted to go to Belize. Much talk and soul searching took place, but we decided we would still attempt to go. After some rather stressful negotiations, Peter Hughes made a transfer of our deposits to the Nekton Pilot. This would allow us to keep the same airfares we had already paid for and still get to dive Belize. I had always wanted to dive off the Nekton so this was actually a good option.
Rick had decided he would go to Belize a week early and do some sight
seeing. Sherrie and I took an 8:45 am flight from Austin to
Dallas, where we would meet Dale to join us for the the flight to Belize.
In order to comply with being at the airport 2 hours prior to
international flying, we were up mighty early! I spent the night
at Sherrie's so that we could use the shuttle service and arrive at the
airport together. When we boarded the plane, we noticed Larry
Gatlin, of the Gatlin Brothers, was also on our flight. It was all
we could do not to break out in "All The Gold in
California!" We arrived in Dallas just fine, but our flight
to Belize was an hour late, but it worked out great because Dale's plane
was running late as well! He met us at the gate and finally we were
all on our
way to Belize. Customs in Belize was no problem, we were greeted by Tisa
from the Nekton, our luggage was put on the truck and taken to the
Nekton while we jumped into a van to be taken to the Radisson to await
the rest of the divers before boarding the Nekton. The first thing on
everyone's mind was food. Nobody had eaten since breakfast, airlines
seem to think humans can exist on snacks and soft drinks these days. We
were told to go across the street to the Smoky Mermaid for a casual
dinner or to the Radisson restaurant for a more formal affair. On our
way to the Smoky Mermaid we ran into Rick. He told us of the adventures
he had in the jungle during the previous four days. It sounded like he
had a pretty good time. The Nekton representatives came to pick us
up in their vans, and we met a few of the other divers we would
be spending the week with. I got into the van and met Oliver, who
was to be the envy of my nephew as he was covered with tattoos! I
said, "Oh my gosh, we're going to be diving with Tommy
Lee." Oliver didn't miss a beat as he said, "This is
going to be a wild trip!" Oliver is a musician and record
producer from California. He was there with his supermodel
girlfriend, Keri. All we ever wanted was to spend a week diving
with a perfect supermodel. As we know, diving is anything but
glamorous, and to have a Victoria's Secret lingerie model amongst us was
a sick feeling to say the least! However, after spending only a
few minutes with Keri, we changed our minds! We wanted to hate
her, but we just couldn't! She was too much fun!! She and
Oliver dived with the neatest hoods. Keri's had horns on the top,
and Oliver's had a shark's fin. Too cool! One couple, Frank and Casey from Texas, were
on their honeymoon. Actually, they only live about 45 miles from
us, so hopefully we can get together soon! Nick and Carol came all the way from
California. When we
arrived at the boat we met the rest of what was going to be a bunch of
great divers to share this week with, Ron & Chris, Trace, Linda,
Blake and Katie, Barry (no, not my ex-boyfriend, but rather a Richard
Gere look alike!), DeDe, Bill & Amy, a father & daughter
dive team, and Isabel and Andy who we would buddy with quite a bit. A little about the Nekton Pilot. First this is not your ordinary dive boat. This thing is huge! Because of its design as a dive boat and not a conversion some things are unique to the Nekton. The dive platform actually raises and lowers making getting on and off the boat very easy. The design of this boat is sort of a catamaran style, actually called SWACAT. It was explained to us but I won't go into details here, but this is by far the most stable boat I have ever been on. We made one crossing at night in eight to ten foot seas and thirty-five knot winds and I didn't even wake up. Most of the time you couldn't tell if the boat was moving at all. The main deck contains a huge lounge, dining area, several cabins and the galley. The lower deck has more cabins, the photo lab and the mechanicals. The upper deck has a huge sundeck complete with tons of hangers for wet gear, the often used Jacuzzi and wheelhouse. All the cabins a quite large and have private baths with gobs of hot water. Maintenance and cleaning was perfect with the bed made as soon as you vacated in the morning and new towels each day. Towels were available on the dive deck to use after the hot shower, but don't even think about taking one of these to your cabin, LOL. Pink towels on the dive deck, blue and green ones in the cabins, nothing wet is allowed inside. One thing that was a pleasant surprise to me was the use of steel 95 tanks. For once, running out of air was not a concern of anybody's! Dale came up from an eighty-two minute dive with eight hundred pounds of air left!
The Nekton put out some awesome food. We didn't have a bad meal, and the
snacks between dives almost made you not want to dive for fear you would
miss out, well let's not get crazy ...... but they were mighty good.
Fresh hot cookies were brought around after the first morning
dive!
Ok, that's enough of this stuff, on with the diving. The schedule was
the same each day. Breakfast at 7:00, dive briefing at 8:00, dive deck
opened until 11:45, lunch at 12:00, dive briefing at 1:00, dive deck
opened until 5:45, dinner at 6:00, slide show at 7:00 dive deck opened
at 8:00 until whenever. Water temp never changed, it sat at 80 degrees
on every dive. These are Dale's dive profiles, and as we all know,
Dale doesn't miss ANY dives! Dale, Rick, Sherrie and I all dove
together, so we were able to share the same sights. Sherrie and I didn't make every dive,
but we came pretty close! Dos
Cocos was the first dive. The vis was great at 75 plus and the wall was
spectacular, covered with large beautiful sponges. Almost instantly an Eagle
Ray appeared swimming towards us off the wall, an awesome
site. Rick followed him to 140 fsw. We also saw a huge puffer, one
of many we would see this week. The next three dives were off Long Caye.
The vis dropped a bit here but was still decent at 50 feet. Two
Hawksbill Turtles, large Grouper, tons of Butterfly Fish, a Flamingo
Tongue that turn back into it's shell and a huge Green Moray
made us glad we had those big steel 95s strapped to our backs. Our first
night dive was also here and it certainly did not disappoint us. Hermit
crabs own this site, they were everywhere, even in the soft corals.
Lobsters also were abundant and were quite large and unafraid. I have
never seen so many Tiger paws than we saw in Belize. Que
Brada was full of Queen Triggers, but none attacked us like that one in
Coz. Large Groupers swam the wall and lurked in cleaning stations. There
were several spotted Drums, both juveniles and adults. The afternoon
dives were on The Cathedral. Now it was 'Cudas, lots of Cudas, big Cudas.
Yellowhead Jaw Fish were in the sand along with many Tilefish. A small
Golden Eel looking terrified was seen buried in a coral head. Our Night
dive was put off until 11:45 so we could be under water at Midnight.
Most of us dived and at the stroke of midnight celebrated like Dick
Clark in Times Square never dreamed of. After the celebration the dive
was highlighted by a sleeping Filefish and Parrotfish of several
varieties and a very cool Spotted
Moray. At the end of the dive we adjourned to the Jacuzzi to
drink the Champagne Rick had brought and welcome in 2002. I've
always wanted to ring in the new year underwater, and this year we did
just that! Rhianon's
is a spectacular reef. Our first Stingray sighting was here. Stingrays
in Belize are very timid, tough to get close. Some really cool tiny
juvenile Drums a couple of Golden Eels and those ever present big Cudas
and Groupers made this a great first dive of the new year. Dolphin
Pas proved to be the favorite of everyone on board. It seems every dive
site has a resident fish. On Dolphin Pass it was Hogfish, bunches of
them in different colors. More Groupers, a Big Eye, the cutest little
Crab entertained us on this site. A Squirrel Fish with an Isopod
attached to it's head made us all feel a little sad, but seeing several
Smooth Trunkfish that Sherrie & I call Tammy Fay Baker made us
feel good again. The night dive on Dolphin's reveled a huge Puffer that
I guess we blinded with our lights, he swam right up my arm and sat
there for a while. We felt bad about blinding him and let him alone.
Those beady eyed Red Night Shrimp were all over the place and I had
quite a battle trying to get one on video, he won. At the end of the
dive I spotted an Octopus, or should I say Biopus!
This poor guy only had two arms, looks like he's had a tough life.
After
a vote by divers the boat was moved over night to Glover's Reef. The
Nekton hadn't dived here since Hurricane Iris so they didn't know what
to expect, we made the right decision. The vis on Lucky Charm was over
100 feet and there was no hurricane damage at all. Green and Spotted
Morays, Balloon
Fish, A brightly colored reddish brown Hogfish, an adult Drum
and tons of Parrotfish and Grouper made the two dive here awesome. For
the afternoon dive we moved to Garcia's Backyard. We saw several of
those skittish Stingrays here along with Juvenile Drums and every
Butterfly fish you can think of. The night dive on Garcia's started out
as a Crab and Lobster extravaganza. The lobsters were huge and almost
aggressive, Dale had a staring contest with one of these bad boys, he
was not going to run. But then he found Belize's answer to Cozumel's
Splendid Toad Fish, the Spotted Toad Fish, endemic to Belize. Many
Spotted Drums, Yellow Tail Damsels, a Diamond Blenny, Rock Beauties, Lobsters,
and two French Angels that were invading a very protective Damsel's farm
made the morning dives stretch well over an hour each. The afternoon
dives on Eternity were equally exciting with Lobsters, some of the
tiniest juvenile Spotted Drums I've ever seen, two squid, and several
Spotted Morays. The night dive was no slouch either. Dale called it the
Big Crab Night on Eternity. A balloon fish came around, they learned our
lesson with the Puffer so didn't blind this guy. They also found a
rather upset Spotted Moray that looked like he wante a piece of Rick.
Dale said that suddenly out of the dark came a huge Cuda! He was
a bit nervous having one approach him at night. But there was video to
shoot so he got in behind him and followed him around hoping for a
reoccurrence of the "Chester Attack", no such luck. Really
this guy looked lost out there swimming very slowly and even crashing
into the reef once. A
cold front had moved into Belize bringing with it 35 knot winds. Our
plan was to move the boat over night to Dolphin Pass for our last day of
diving. All went well and we were moored when disaster hit. The Nekton
is a big boat and not the most aerodynamic thing on the ocean. The wind
was too strong and the mooring line snapped. Ok, no big deal we'll just
move to another site, but when we arrived the vis was around ten feet,
not good. So it was reluctantly back to Inspiration Point and what
looked like the loss of a dive. But Captain Jon said no, we wouldn't
miss a dive and told the DMs to keep the dive deck opened all day which
would allow us to get in all the dives we planned. Since my flight home
was at 2:11 PM the next day I was only able to do three dives. These
weren't the best dives of the week but we did find a lot of Morays
and Drums of all sizes. Several other divers were able to get in a full day's diving since they weren't leaving Belize until Sunday. The rest of us took the afternoon to clean gear, look at the photos and video we had shot during the week. After dinner there was the photo contest which Rick won for a very cool picture of a Brittlestar on a Vase Sponge. There were a lot of really nice photos taken. Several of the divers had taken a photo course from Ben and it showed they had paid attention in class. Then David, the Video Pro, showed his week's Nekton video. It was very funny and well produced. He caught everyone in some entertaining if not embarrassing moment. Then it was packing and try to get some sleep for our last night on the Nekton. After a continental breakfast Saturday morning it was time to depart the Nekton. Some went straight to the airport, some back to the Radisson and some went on the Mayan ruin tour. Dale, Sherrie and I choose the tour. It was interesting and free. The guide certainly knew his subject and filled us in on everything we'd ever want know about the ruins and the Mayans. On the way back to town they dropped Dale off at the airport for his 2:00 flight back to the States. Sherrie, Carol and I had lunch at the Smoky Mermaid again, where we met up with DeDe & Barry, Frank & Casey, Blake & Katie and Trace & Lin. After a quick shopping trip, Sherrie, Carol, Nick and I were taken to the airport to catch our 4:40 flight to Dallas. We met up with Bill & Amy and Oliver and Keri who were waiting to catch their flight to Houston at about the same time as our flight. We were then told our flight was an hour late. Bad news. This would mean that Sherrie and I would be spending the night in Dallas, AGAIN! That seems to be our tradition on past trips! However, somehow they made up some time in the air, and we had 40 minutes to get our bags, clear customs, and change terminals to catch our connecting flight. We took off like lightening, and grabbed a ride from one of the little trams and made it to our gate with 3 minutes to spare. At that time, they must have thought we looked suspicious, because they searched our carryon bags, wanded us down, and then frisked us. We told them to do whatever they wanted to do, but just don't let that plane leave without us! We thought we were going to have to take a running leap to catch the plane, but the good news is that we made it! Our bags didn't make it, nor did we expect them to! But American Airlines delivered our bags to our homes the following afternoon. The diving, while not spectacular, did keep us in the water for a long time, so we can't complain. The weather did have its effect on the choice of dive sites, maybe under better conditions we would have seen more. However, The Nekton did live up to their advertisements. The boat was rock solid, roomy, clean and comfortable. It has the largest rooms I've seen on a live aboard. The crew was great, making every effort to ensure us a good and safe time. The food, what can I say about the food? Fantastic! More than you wanted and the snacks and desserts were to die for. One more taco, shrimp, piece of prime rib or one more piece of that cheese cake and I might have skipped a dive! Captain Jon's slide shows taught us a thing or two about the reef and it's critters. While all of us are always busy looking for the "big stuff" on a dive, Captain Jon encouraged us to learn about the corals and to enjoy the small things while we await the "big stuff." I was amazed the change in what I looked for after one of these shows. The fellow divers on this trip were among the best I've had the privilege of sharing a boat with. Everyone was friendly and all great divers. This was a great trip. Considering the problems we had on our prior dive trip in August (the trip from Hell) we were just happy to be diving again! We decided to compare the two trips and make a decision on which one to do again..... hummm, let's think it over:
Nekton Pilot Boat from Hell Share your big room with friends Share a closet with total strangers Friendly Informative Captain Hitler as a Captain Informative Dive Site briefings with maps No briefings - no nuthin' Clean fresh sheets Barf on your sheets Warm towels after each dive No towels at all. Period. Dive your own profile Get banned from diving for 3 days Helpful and Friendly Crew Crew? What Crew? Assistance with gear/photo equipment Assistance? What's that? Clean private bathrooms Share 2 filthy bathrooms with 36 people Private showers Share 2 showers with 36 people Dive with Friendly People Dive with mostly jerks Dive with normal weight people Dive with fat slobs Beautiful spacious rooms Sleep on a shelf with your luggage No DCS or deaths on trip 2 DCS hits and one death on trip Fresh baked cookies between dives Chips or pretzels, if you're lucky Plenty of lounge chairs to sunbathe in Broken down picnic tables Hot tub Surely you jest! Informative slide shows about coral & sealife Are you kidding me? Extremely calm boat Ride 'em Cowboy! No seasickness Lessons on fluffing barf bags Leave the trip with great memories! Thank God you are off of that boat alive!
Hummmmmm this is a hard decision.......... I might need a little help deciding which boat to take in the future! NOT!
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